Broken Crimp

Guides

Adjust the body, add body moves and let go

A beta is more than where the hands and feet go. You can correct how the climber’s body sits on any move, or pose it joint by joint. A body move says what the rest of you is doing, and Let go takes a limb off the wall when the climb calls for it.

1. Adjust the body on a move

When you place a limb, the app works out where the body goes. If that isn’t how you climb it, correct it. With no limb lit on the dial, tap the climber. A dashed box appears around it, with a handle on one side and two round buttons on the other, and .

Tap the bare wall to put the controls away.

The change belongs to this move only, and on the next move the app works out the body again. If you pull the body too far, the limb you just placed stops it, and older limbs out of reach let go.

Undo takes back a change. To clear every change to the body on a move, press the gear on the move’s bar and choose Reset body. The row is there only once the body has been changed.

The gear menu open, with Note, Tags, Pin, Reset body and Advanced editor.

2. Set every joint with Edit pose

When moving and turning the body isn’t enough, pose the climber yourself. Press the pencil beside the selected climber, or choose Edit pose in the menu. A mark appears on the head, the elbows, the hands, the middle of the body, the knees and the feet.

A limb drawn longer than it really is shows stripes, so you can see where a pose asks too much of it. The stripes appear only while you edit.

The slider and the arrows still work here, so you can pose move after move. Undo takes back one drag at a time, Reset clears the pose from this move, and Done returns to the wall.

A pose stays with its move and shows when you play the beta. The handle and the arrow button then edit that pose.

3. Add a body move

Adjusting the body changes how a move you already placed looks. A body move is a move of its own, with its own number.

On the Beta maps tab, tap the middle of the dial, then tap the wall where your body goes. A grey label marks the spot, and the climber moves its body there.

A body move lasts for that move only. On the next one, the climber is free again.

4. Say which move it is

The button under the wall reads Move. Tap it to choose from Bat hang, Deadpoint, Dyno, Jam, Layback, Mantle, Rockover and Stem, or press Custom… to use your own word. The glossary explains each one.

The list of body moves, including Dyno, Layback and Mantle, with a note field below.
The climber with a grey BD 3 label on the wall, captioned Layback, and Body and Layback on the bar.

5. Let a limb go

Tap the limb on the dial, then tap the spot where it already is on the wall. The app asks what you mean:

Letting go is a move of its own, with its own number. The climber’s limb then hangs free.

After Adjust grip, a small arrow beside the hand or foot marks the second move on that spot, and the move’s panel opens so you can name the new grip.

A dialog saying Right foot is already on the wall, offering Adjust grip and Let go.
The climber with its right foot hanging free, and a note on the wall saying 4, RF, Let go.
A close-up of the left hand on its hold, with a small curved arrow beside it and the label LH 9.

The app also drops a limb by itself when the climber moves too far from it. Use Let go when you want it to happen on a particular move.

6. Put it back

Place the limb again as usual: tap it on the dial, then tap where it goes.

Cut loose as you move

To let a foot go at the same moment a hand moves, put both on one move. Long-press the hand on the dial and tap the foot. Place the hand, then tap the spot the foot is on and choose Let go.