Broken Crimp

Glossary

Climbing moves

These are the moves you can name on a beta in Broken Crimp, with the limbs each one applies to. Each picture is that move on a beta. LH, RH, LF and RF are the hands and feet, BD is the body, and the number says which move it is.

Bat hang on a beta in Broken Crimp

Bat hang

Foot, body

Hanging upside down from the feet or legs, with the head below the hips. It can give the arms a rest under a roof.

Bicycle on a beta in Broken Crimp

Bicycle

Foot · Also: toe-hook bicycle

One foot pushes down on a hold while the other toe pulls up on it from below or behind.

Bump on a beta in Broken Crimp

Bump

Hand

A hand moves from one hold to another close by, in one extra move, without the other hand changing.

Clip on a beta in Broken Crimp

Clip

Hand

Putting the rope through a quickdraw on a bolt.

Crimp on a beta in Broken Crimp

Crimp

Hand

Holding on with the fingertips. The word also names a type of hold.

Cross through on a beta in Broken Crimp

Cross through

Hand · Also: crossover

One hand reaches past the other, crossing over or under it, to the next hold.

Deadpoint on a beta in Broken Crimp

Deadpoint

Body

A dynamic reach that catches the hold at the top of the movement, in the moment the body is weightless. At least one point stays on the wall.

Drop knee on a beta in Broken Crimp

Drop knee

Foot

With the foot on a hold, the knee turns inward and down, bringing the hip closer to the wall.

Dyno on a beta in Broken Crimp

Dyno

Body

A jump to a hold that is out of static reach, usually with all or most of the body leaving the wall.

Edge on a beta in Broken Crimp

Edge

Foot

Standing on a hold with the edge of the shoe.

Flag on a beta in Broken Crimp

Flag

Foot

One leg reaches out against the wall to balance the body, with no hold under it.

Gaston on a beta in Broken Crimp

Gaston

Hand

Pushing a hold outward with the elbow out and the thumb down, like opening a lift door.

Grab on a beta in Broken Crimp

Grab

Hand

A hand takes hold, with no particular grip named.

Guppy on a beta in Broken Crimp

Guppy

Hand

A pinch taken from above.

Heel hook on a beta in Broken Crimp

Heel hook

Foot

The heel goes on a hold and pulls.

Jam on a beta in Broken Crimp

Jam

Hand, foot, body

A hand, a foot or the whole body wedged into a crack.

Kneebar on a beta in Broken Crimp

Kneebar

Foot

The leg wedges between a foot on one hold and the knee against another. A good one can take the weight off the hands.

Layback on a beta in Broken Crimp

Layback

Body · Also: lieback

Leaning away from an edge, pulling on it with the hands while the feet push against the wall.

Let go on a beta in Broken Crimp

Let go

Hand, foot

A hand or a foot comes off the hold it is on, on purpose.

Mantle on a beta in Broken Crimp

Mantle

Body

Pressing down on a ledge with the hands to get the body up above it.

Match on a beta in Broken Crimp

Match

Hand

Both hands on the same hold.

Move on a beta in Broken Crimp

Move

Body

The body shifts to a new position with no limb changing hold.

Pinch on a beta in Broken Crimp

Pinch

Hand

Squeezing a hold between the thumb and the fingers. The word also names a type of hold.

Place gear on a beta in Broken Crimp

Place gear

Hand

Putting a cam, a nut or another piece of protection into the rock.

Rockover on a beta in Broken Crimp

Rockover

Body · Also: high step

Shifting the weight over a high foot.

Shake on a beta in Broken Crimp

Shake

Hand · Also: shake out

Taking one hand off the wall and shaking it to rest.

Smear on a beta in Broken Crimp

Smear

Foot

Pressing the foot against the rock, with friction alone keeping it there. The word also names a place on the wall.

Stem on a beta in Broken Crimp

Stem

Body · Also: bridge, chimney

Pushing out against two opposing faces with the hands or the feet.

Step on on a beta in Broken Crimp

Step on

Foot

A foot goes onto a hold.

Toe cam on a beta in Broken Crimp

Toe cam

Foot

The toe pushes against one surface while the heel braces against another, wedging the foot.

Toe hook on a beta in Broken Crimp

Toe hook

Foot

The top of the foot hooks behind a hold or a feature and pulls.